Saturday, February 18, 2012

The Good, The Bad, & The Ugly

Well hello friends. I feel like I always start my blogs postings with the same idea: it's been a long time. Unfortunately, time has passed, whether quickly or slowly for all of us, without me taking the time to update you for a very long time.  A day or week here in Morocco feels like months sometimes; so, because it's been a month and a half since the last update, it feels like 6 months have gone by since I shared my life with you.

This post is hopefully appropriately named.  Just a caution before we begin with the whirlwind of details I'm going to share, I may complain a lot in this post--know that I am not truly unhappy here, and you don't need to worry about my sanity or health or safety (ok--you may need to worry about my sanity), but instead, it's all just part of learning to adjust and adapt to a new culture and a new life.

January:
I can say in all confidence that this was the most miserable, rotten, rough, horrible, no good, very bad month I've ever had in my entire life.  Ironically, it began and ended so well, but the events and feelings that developed during the middle section (roughly Jan. 3 - Jan. 29) were some of the most painful I've experienced.  My parents left promptly on January 1st--why is it that I'm the only person who misses a plane in the family--and I was able to feel like an awesome person having the experience of driving a manual car through the countryside of Morocco. *Clarification: mom and dad flew out of Tangier, a four-hour drive from Fez, so we ended up driving to Tangier (clarification again: DAD ended up driving to Tangier), and I drove back home. I thought that their leaving would be really rough on me, but I actually handled it well.  Of course I didn't want them to leave, but I think it was much easier for them to go back to Ohio than for me to have been in Ohio and travel back to Morocco alone.

Starting back to school was. . . interesting. I really did miss my students, oddly enough, but the old adage that people who need a vacation are the people who were just on vacation is so true.  I was exhausted after the first day back!  Teaching four English classes is not easy (although you may be surprised to hear it)!  However, after the first few days back to school, it seemed that everything caught up with me.  The nights were freezing cold, and even though I have a gas heater in my room, it just wasn't enough to keep the house from being an icicle.  Going to bed and waking up and being able to see your breath inside makes a person crazy.  Then, half way through January, I got the flu.  So on top of being cold already, I had the chills, felt super weak, was frustrated with classroom issues that have been going on since August, and was ready to pack up and move home.  Let's just say I was in the peak of Culture Stress.  Even though I knew I couldn't really leave, and I don't really dislike Morocco, any place would've been better than Fez during January.  I did have a glimmer of hope halfway through the cold, busy, stressful month.  My roommates and friends from school threw me a surprise birthday brunch, took me for smoothies in the Medina, went shopping with me, and made me dinner.  I was so thankful for their love and friendship on my first birthday overseas.

 25th birthday smoothie @ Clock Cafe

Thankfully a dear friend from Memphis came to visit the week after I was sick.  The month's hardships and the frustration of being sick and missing school seemed to dissipate when Emily arrived--I took her on a tour of the Medina, we ate lots of good traditional Moroccan food, caught up on life events, and I was able to vent to her about how frustrating life in Morocco can be and remember how there can be wonderful moments here too.  She was only here for four days, but we had a blast; I was so grateful to see a familiar face. She was a blessing!

February:
This month has been so much better already--actually it was so much better than January within the first few days.  The temperature in the middle of the day has been back into the 60s, so even though it's freezing cold inside and at night, it's still possible to go for a walk in the middle of the day, soak up some sunshine, find a bit of warmth and thaw out a bit.

While I still feel inadequate at school, get frustrated when my students don't turn in their homework, or when I feel like we have hardly learned anything since September, there have been a few positive moments this month.  I'm taking Arabic lessons with a friend of mine twice a week.  It's really difficult and hard to remember, but it's fun to take what we practice and class and go out and try to use the language.  The first weekend in February we spent all day Saturday and Sunday practicing the language--we went to an underground market to buy fruits and vegetables, a pastry shop, and grabbed some tea in the Medina.  It's fun to be able to talk to people, and even though I don't understand half of what they're saying back to me, learning some of the language is definitely making it more enjoyable to be here.
That same weekend we were invited to a Moroccan family's for dinner.  Here's a recap of the evening:
Our friend from the school lives with the nephew of the family, and so they invited us for dinner.  Lauren called and said we would be there around 7, and they insisted we should arrive around 5.  Well, since we had gone to the Medina to work on school stuff, we didn't get there until 6:30--still too early!  Apparently, when Moroccans tell you to arrive at a certain time, they really mean 3 hours later.  Eek.  Anyway, our friend from school wasn't even at the house yet, so we sat downstairs with the women in the family--3 aunts and 2 cousins, all hiding underneath blankets to stay warm.  We talked a bit in our limited, broken Arabic, but mostly tried to listen and laughed when everyone else was laughing.  Jess and Youssef arrived, and we ate "dinner" around 7:30.  The family brought out pastries, bread, butter, jelly, meat slices, cheese, cookies, cakes, nuts, and tea.  I thought it was an interesting assortment of food for dinner, but who was I to judge someone's eating habits when I've been known to eat cereal or popcorn for dinner??  Well, they keept telling me "zeedi" and "cooli"  (more and eat), so I did--I filled up.  When we were done, they cleared the table and mentioned soup.  Excuse me??? This wasn't actually dinner??  Oh no!  This was just the meal before the actual meal.  Well, Lauren and I were stuffed, so the family and we decided to take a walk. . . at 9:30 at night. . . in the freezing cold! :)  We walked off our stuffed stomachs, and I thought we would eat as soon as we returned.  After all, it was past 10p.m. and that seemed a bit late for dinner (good thing we didn't have school the next day!). When we returned to the house, the lady of the house (mulet-dar), took Lauren and I upstairs to show us something.  She proceeded to pull kaften after kaften out of the closet and insisted we try them on--including jewelry!!  (A kaften is a fancy. . .over dress. . . that women wear for special events like weddings) It was like playing dress-up only better!  Lauren had on a kaften that cost nearly 1000 euros, and I had on a 20,000 durham gold necklace!  It was so much fun!  We finally made it back downstairs and had dinner--delicious soup, fried potatoes, and meat--around 11:45 p.m.  By the time Lauren and I made it home (after declining their many invitations to spend the night), it was nearly 1:30 in the morning!!!  However, it was really neat to spend time with a Moroccan family, practice our Arabic, eat delicious food, and try on such neat clothing!

 Kaftans #1
I'm wearing a black Abaya from Saudi, Lauren's in the expensive kaftan that had beautiful crystal flowers all over it.  

 Lauren's favorite--she loved the sleeves :)

 Hello, tiger fur!

 My favorite: green with a snake skin effect

I also received some belated packages and cards for my birthday--present from America ALWAYS help cheer me up! :)  Although I think I'm starting to get another cold, there were a few days this month where I felt healthy, and it was nice to feel normal again.  We're working on Shakespeare in two of my classes, and even though the students may not be getting everything and they still don't want to participate or turn in their homework, I'm so glad that I love the subject I'm teaching (and I do love my students too. . . ).

My roommates' birthdays are also this month.  This week we went to a restaurant in the Medina and had some yummy food.  Tonight we're going to an Asian restaurant in the city, wearing traditional Moroccan kaftans.  I'll make sure to post a picture or two later.

As always, warfare is a big issue here.  I think that's most of the reason I've been having a hard time the past few weeks/this winter.  Please continue to pray for me--my teaching and how I view my abilities, my relationships with other teachers and people outside of school, plans for the summer, and what the Father wants for me for next year.

I miss everyone so much, and I'm looking forward to coming back to the U.S. in mid-June.  Thankfully we have a much needed spring break coming up in 2 weeks--hopefully it will be a relaxing time away from teaching.  I'll be headed to Italy (Milan, Rome, Florence) for 6 days & can't wait to fill you in on that experience!!! xoxo